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FE2 and FM3A Comparison

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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 12:32:09 +1200
From: "Roland Vink" <roland.vink@aut.ac.nz>
Subject: FE2 vs FM3a

Hi All,

I had a chance to handle the new FM3a last weekend. I thought it would be useful to compare it against the FE2, which is the closest alternative.  The appearance, layout of controls and usage of both cameras are very similar. Listed below are the differences:

SHUTTER CONTROL:
The FE2 has electronically timed shutter speeds in A and manual mode. M250 and B are mechanical.
The FM3 has electronically timed the shutter speeds in A mode only.  The manually set shutter speeds and B are mechanical. Useful for extreme cold/wet conditions, where electronics may fail. Also good if the batterries go flat, although spare batteries are so small, there's no excuse not to have them.

SHUTTER BLADES:
The FE2 has titanium shutter blades with a honey-comb pattern.
The FM3 has smooth aluminium shutter blades like the FM2n.
Both top out at 1/4000 sec, flash sync at 1/250 sec.

SHUTTER NOISE:
The FM3 shutter seems a little smoother and quieter than the FE2. The greater noise of my FE2 may be lack of mirror damping due to the thin layer of crumbling foam at the top of the mirror box! For long exposures there is a quiet buzzing from the FM3 from the mechanical timer.

VIEWFINDER BRIGHTNESS:
The FM3 viewfinder screen is much brighter. With K3 screen and 45/2.8P lens it is almost brighter than my FE2 with E2 screen and 50/1.8 lens. Impressive! If you plan to use the brighter screens with your FM2 and FE2, you will need 1.3, possibly 1.7 stops compensation.  The FE2 viewfinder has a yellowish cast, which I hadn't noticed before.  Defocused lights in the FM3 viewfinder show a distinct moire pattern (caused by the brighter fresnel screen?) so out of focus effects may be harder to see with the brighter screens.

VIEWFINDER READOUT:
Both cameras use the popular match needle viewfinder indicator. A transparent bar indicates the camera setting and a black needle indicates the meter reading. 
The FE2 has a green bar, the FM3 has a blue bar. On the FE2, camera settings are A, manual shutter speeds from 1/4000 - 8 seconds, M250 and B.
On the FM3, camera settings are A, manual shutter speeds from 1/4000 - 1 second and B.  In A mode the FM3 will meter down to 8 seconds, but the meter scale does not go down that far! For 2 second exposures the meter points to the "B" setting, for 4 and 8 seconds the meter points further down the red space below, so at least you get an indication of longer shutter speeds (the blue bar still covers the "A", so you know you are not on the bulb setting).

VIEWFINDER INDICATORS:
The FE2 has a flash ready light just inside the eyepiece at the top. The (+/-) exposure compensation warning light is on the right of the viewfinder screen. It's too far from the meter on the left and ADR at the top to see in one glance, unless you press your eyeball really close. (I didn't even know it was there until I had my FE2 for some weeks!). 
The FM3 flash ready light and exposure compensation warning are both above the viewfinder screen, next to the ADR readout. A more sensible placement which is easier to see.

EXPOSURE METER ACTIVATION:
The exposure meter of the FE2 does not activate until frame 1 is reached.  This often means frames 00 and 0 are wasted, unless you can meter by eye, or have a separate meter.
The exposure meter of the FM3 can be activated at any time.

FILM SPEED SETTING:
Film speed on the FE2 is set manually.
Film speed on the FM3 can be set manually or automatically with the DX system. You can quickly load different types of film without the risk of settng the wrong film speed.

LOADED FILM INDICATOR:
The FE2 has a small pocket on the camera back for holding the film box lid, so you can remember which film is loaded - misleading if you forget to insert the correct box lid!. Also useful for holding small reminder notes.
The FM3 has a no pocket, but film window instead. A useful feature for a camera with DX coding.

The FM3 and FE2 (and FM2) camera backs are interchangeable, so I imagine FE2 useers who want a film window may be able to buy a spare FM3 back.

FILM PRESSURE PLATE:
The FE2 has a smooth flat film pressure plate.  
The FM3 has a larger film pressure plate with small dimples in a square pattern.

CAMERA BACK OPENING:
The camera back is opened by lifting the film rewind crank. On the FE2 a small lever below must be pushed to the side to release the crank. This prevents accidental opening. The small lever is dispensed with on the FM3.

FLASH COMPENSATION:
The FE2 has no flash compensation control. Flash output can only be controlled via the exposure compensation dial.
The FM3 has a flash compensation button, above the lens release button. It reduces flash output by 1 stop. It must be held while shooting, you can't "set and forget".  With a TTL flash attached and the camera in A mode, the camera fires at 1/250 (X sync) regardless of the ambient light reading (like the FE2) so you still can't do TTL fill-flash in A mode.  :-(  In manual mode, you can do fill-flash without fiddling with the exposure compensation dial (which requires counter-compenstation for correct ambient exposure.)  The flash compensation button is a useful but very limited control for fill flash. Much nicer would have been a flash compensation dial, similar to the exposure compensation dial, and one which permits fill-flash in A mode. A half-baked effort - a pity, because this is the thing I wanted most for the FE2. I'll still use my F601 for fill flash.

AUTO-EXPOSURE LOCK:
The FE2 exposure lock is accessed by pressing the self timer towards the lens mount. The placement at the front of the camera is a little awkward, especially with the MD-12 attached, and I've always found it too firm to hold comfortably. 
The FM3 exposure lock is a small button at the at the back of the camera.  It falls naturally under the thumb in use.

ACCESSORY SHOE:
The FM3 has a small lock hole at the top of the hot shoe to prevent accidental dropping.

TOP CONTROLS:
The shutter speed dial and film speed/exposure compensation dials on the FM3 are slightly taller and easier to grip than the FE2.

The film wind lever on the FM3 is very smooth!

The FE2 shutter speed dial and center of the film wind lever are black.  On the FM3 they are chrome (chrome body version).

All film speed setting on the FE2 are visible on the film speed dial.
The FM3 has film speed settings visible through a window in the film speed dial, which gives a cleaner look. It permits the films speed dial to be smaller since it does not need to fit all the film speed and exposure compensation settings on top.

The film plane indicator is moved from the right of the viewfinder to the left of the viewfinder, below the exposure compensation button.

TOP AND BOTTOM PLATES:
The FE2 has a slightly squared viewfinder prism.
The FM3 has a peaked viewfinder prism. The top plates are not the same and are not interchangeable.
The bottom plates look identical, although the FM3 has "CE" stamped on the bottom.

SUMMARY:
In most respects, except for those listed above, the FM3a is identical in appearance, handling and capability to the FE2. Both accept the same accessories. Overall I would say the FM3 represents a small but definite improvement over the FE2 (and FM2n).

Nikon did a good job with this camera, yet I feel they missed a chance to do something exceptional. The many refinements are welcome - the improved controls, bright viewfinder and new features will please many photographers. Some improvements only seem to go half way. The new viewfinder layout is great, but what about an indication of shutter speeds longer than 1 second in Auto mode?  When I heard the new FM3a would feature flash compensation I was very excited, yet the implimentation is disappointing.  I question the addition of DX coding. It's a convenient feature but one I can live without, it was never on my wish list for a new "FE3". For the
extra electronics involved, I would sooner have a spot meter.  One of the things I like about the FM and FE series is their simplicity.  This new camera, with DX coding, and hybrid shutter strikes me as being very complex, I hope it is no less reliable than its predecessors.

Don't let my small concerns put you off. This is a lovely camera, the best FE and FM series yet. It's good to see Nikon continue their support of manual focus cameras. For those with Nikon Aquisition Syndrome, you can add this one to your List of Things To Get  :-)

Roland

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